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This part of the Eastern Cape is a special place. Rugged ranges rise up inland from Addo Elephant National Park – and you can literally still hike with dinosaurs…
Those folk sure knew what they were talking about when they branded the Eastern Cape as the “adventure province”. Bombing down the snaking single-track into the valley slumbering at the foot of the Seven Dwarves descent only emphasises that point. So far, it’s been downhill all the way from Zuurberg Mountain Village, along a track I can honestly rate as one of the top three mountain-bike stage-race routes in the whole of South Africa.
Windswept and golden grassland ridges – dotted with prehistoric cycadifolia dating back to the Jurassic period – make way for dense montane slopes, all a-bristle with thickets of boerboon, kiepersol and aloe ferox. The further you drop into the belly of the valleys, the more you expect to encounter Hobbits and wizards.
We’re in the rugged and remote valleys of Addo Elephant National Park’s Zuurberg section, and this unexplored natural playground is about as wild as this hideaway part of the “frontier country” gets, with never-ending hiking, mountain-biking and running trails traversing the peaks that stack high towards distant Karoo plains.
Access is permit-based and pretty safe, with many of the trail heads starting right on your front porch if you’re staying at the historic Zuurberg Mountain Village.
Which is where I’m headed to, albeit in a rather roundabout way. So far, the descents and flats have been easy enough, but a steep, tortuous and rather gnarly climb switch-backing up to Camp Figtree looms. Not that this worries me too much – I’m behind the bars of a souped-up Giant Stance e-bike, and for once in my life I cannot wait for those climbs to kick in!
After Figtree, there’s a high-speed downhill that doglegs onto the legendary Hayterdale Trails. This superbly scaped fat-tyre playground bangs you onto bush-tunnel after berm and over wooden bridges in a rhythmic velo pedal session that is as good as any ride will ever be. And yes, I am talking mountain biking here.
The iconic Zuurberg Pass is up next. Sure, you could do it at a leisurely pace in a Toyota. But hell, man, it’s not gonna beat that dog-with-its-head-out-the-window-while-gnashing-gulps-of-air-and-yowling-at-the-sky feeling, is it? Nope – so instead, flex your thumb to boost that power button, settle into that comfy Stance saddle, and ride, baby, ride!
GO DO THIS
If that all sounds a tad hardcore, don’t worry: there are loads of laid-back options for those less versed in the lactic-acid department…
Hike (or Run) The secret Zuurberg section of the Addo Elephant National Park boasts a superb network of hiking trails, offering everything from easy ambles to strenuous multi-day treks. You’ll lose yourself in densely wooded valleys and breathtaking views from grassland plateaus, where ancient cycads and spreading cabbage trees dot dramatic cliff edges. Look out for bushbuck, spiral-horned kudu and an impressive bird list, including Verreaux’s and Martial Eagles.
Ride Hayterdale Trails plays host to some of the top mountain-biking trails in South Africa, with hand-built and manicured tracks catering for all levels of riders. Crank into proper velo paydirt on 60km-plus of loamy single-track, with top quality builds, wooden bridges, shaped berms and bush tunnels galore. You’ll be smiling your way through indigenous forest and – once out of the bush (and possibly out of breath), you’ll marvel at extraordinary views across the coastal plains towards Port Elizabeth. Well-marked and colour-coded routes make it impossible to lose your way.
addoadventure.co.za/hayterdale-trails
Horse About Saddle up on a real horse for morning or afternoon rides in the Nyathi Section of Addo Elephant National Park. The two-hour morning ride (from 8am) is great for beginners, while longer afternoon rides (from 2pm) will suit experienced riders. Herds of zebra, elephant, buffalo and other plains game make for an exceptional wilderness experience. All trails are conducted by experienced guides on well-trained horses.
Walk with Elephants Addo Elephant Lodge & Safaris offers visitors an opportunity to enjoy an elephant encounter in proper Eastern Cape bushveld. View the elephants up close in their natural environment, on a walk through the diverse flora and fauna of the valleys, plains and forests.
addoelephantlodgeandsafaris.co.za
Go Off-Roading in the Baviaans River Conservancy The back roads transecting the remote valleys and hills of the Eastern Cape midlands will take you and your 4×4 into proper frontier country. Dozens of clashes between 1820 settlers, the Boer armies and Xhosa people have been fought in the region over a 100-year
period, with many memorials and monuments dotting the Baviaans River valley between Bedford and Tarkastad.
It’s a great day outing – you’ll discover a land yet to be tamed, brimming with rugged off-road tracks and farm stays renowned for their country hospitality.
STAY HERE
Zuurberg Mountain Village
Situated high up on the Zuurberg Pass, this exclusive mountain retreat dates back to the 1850s. Set within 160 hectares of indigenous vegetation – and with magnificent views of Addo Elephant National Park – the accommodation is up to international standards. Facilities include a restaurant, an English pub, chapel, all-weather tennis courts and a swimming pool. Guided game drives to the park are available.
Addo Elephant Lodge & Safaris
Bordering the greater Addo Elephant National Park, this private conservation concern is fully fenced and stocked with game. Exclusive suites are nestled within yellowwood forests or perched on elevated wooden decks along the Zuurberg hills, blending discreetly into the surrounding bushveld environment.
addoelephantlodgeandsafaris.co.za
Camp Figtree Mountain Safari Lodge
Camp Figtree is a sanctuary in the heart of nature, providing comfort and luxury in an eco-friendly environment. Accommodation options range from family suites to luxury tents, all with verandas and superb views. Contemporary South African cuisine is served in the restaurant.
BEST TIME TO GO
The mountain micro-climate is generally mild, and mostly warm and temperate throughout summer. Winters tend to dip into “big chill” mode, with freezing nights and fresh daytime temperatures.
Rainfall is evenly distributed throughout the year, with most precipitation in early and late summer.
