There’s actually a whole uncharted swathe that stretches all the way from the coast to the Sonderend Ranges and unfolds eastwards for a couple hundred kilometres from Heidelberg, just waiting to be explored…
Yup, we’ve all heard the old cliché “it’s about the journey, not the destination”. That may be pretty much spot-on, yet somehow most of us kick into rat-race mode as soon as we hit the highway. In this case, the highway in question is the N2, and more specifically that section flat-lining from Heidelberg to Mossel Bay. This area of the Western Cape is colloquially known as the Hessequa, but more recently it has started earning the cachet of the “Explorers Garden Route”. This makes a whole load of sense, as most of us have been perpetually bombing this canola tarmac line as we head like lemmings for the oh-so-overcrowded Garden Route proper.
Here’s the deal: all you need to do is take a sho’t left (or right) off the N2 anywhere east of Heidelberg to plug into some lekker Vitamin G(ravel). Good news is you’ll also miss the Riversdale speed trap rip-off, which means more money for beer and burgers at roadside spots such as Delish and Blue Crane … how’s that for incentive?
Read on for a handful of dorps, destinations, eateries, trails and activities you don’t want to miss out on! And if you need more low-down on the Explorers Garden Route, trawl explorersgardenroute.co.za … you have no idea what’s waiting around the next corner!
STRAWBERRY HILL FARM Grootvadersbosch Conservancy
Closest town: Suurbraak (42km)
Although Grootvadersbosch Nature Reserve is a mere 250ha in size, it extends onto the vast Boosmansbos Wilderness Area, adding 14 200ha of wilderness with an extensive hiking trail network of more than 100km in total. Headlining the outdoor destination line-up here, however, is the Grootvadersbosch Conservancy. During recent years, both the WWF (world- wildlifefund.org) and Table Mountain Fund (thetablemountainfund.org.za) have supported 19 local landowners in shaping one of the Cape’s most successful ecotourism destinations. These days, the Grootvadersbosch Conservancy rates as a way more popular tourism drawcard, especially when it comes to mountain biking, trail running and hiking.
The beauty of Strawberry Hill Farm is that it is situated right on the superb single-track tripping into this fynbos paradise, with access to a good 100km of prime mountain biking. It is also only a short walk to the relic forest in the nearby nature reserve, with verdant kloofs and rugged peaks galore.
WHAT TO DO
RIDE The GVB Conservancy Trails traverse a rollicking route intermediate to technical trails that take in varied eco-systems, including montane forest, mountain fynbos, Renosterveld and agricultural fields, all along the Langeberg slopes. Access is possible from all the establishments along the route, with the conservancy offices situated at Strawberry Hill Farm. Get ready for superb single-track, interspersed with gravel roads, bush-cutter trail and the occasional rocky stream crossing. gvbconservancy.co.za
HIKE OR RUN There is easy hiking along 140km of multi- use routes across conservancy or you can easily explore the nature reserve routes next door.The Redwoods Circuit is a must and you will truly feel as if you’ve been transported into an SFX scene from Jurassic Park. For trail runners, spectacular views across both the Little Karoo and Overberg will delight you while you run along several well-marked trails. Distance options range from 2–15km, while the two-day Boosmansbos Trail (30km) gets you into deep-mountain territory. capenature.co.za
OFF-ROAD Take a drive along Gysmanshoek Pass, a meandering cruise along the mountainous back roads of the Overberg. You can make this a full day out by following a circular route via Barrydale, returning via the scenic Tradouw Pass.
BIRDING Grootvadersbosch is a premier birding location, with a good 170 species listed, including several pairs of resident Forest Buzzard, as well as a breeding pair of Crowned Eagles.
STAY HERE
Strawberry Hill Lodge is a newly built guesthouse that caters for MTB groups keen on easy trail access. Four stylish bedrooms and four bathrooms mean there is ample space for up to 10 people, and the house is fully equipped for self-catering. Book ahead to arrange a massage therapist, physio or qualified guide. strawberryhillfarm.co.za
GETTING THERE
On the N2, about 10km beyond Swellendam, start looking for a sign on the left indicating the turnoff to Suurbraak. Follow the signs for Grootvadersbosch Nature Reserve from here.
Access: tar/gravel – okay for sedans
Cell reception: good signal & WiFi at farm
GPS coordinates: Strawberry Hill Farm – S33°59’46.20”; E20°49’25.30”
gvbconservancy.co.za / +27 (0)79 335 0269
GOURIKWA PRIVATE NATURE RESERVE
Closest town: Gouritsmond (16km)
Vleesbaai, Gouritsmond, Fransmanshoek, Boggomsbaai … the mere mention of these tiny dorps conjures up images of secret surf breaks and rugged coastal trails traversing the tempestuous Indian Ocean shoreline. Gourikwa Private Nature Reserve is situated along the old Stilbaai Road, just 8km after you cross the Gourits River.You’ll find a village here – ever so slightly lost in time – with family homes, an imposing old church, conference centre and restaurant rising up from the tempestuous shoreline.
WHAT TO DO
RIDE Pedal off on a gradual 5km ascent to the main gate, looking for a track to your left off the tarmac.This ascends into the upper ridges of the reserve, where a good 60km of jeep track traverses the fynbos ridges unfolding towards Stilbaai. Look for the next sand track to your left – parallel to the tarmac – in order to connect with the Scenic Drive Route. Options abound and you can’t really get lost as long as you keep an eye on the ocean.
OFF-ROAD Test your sand-driving skills along the 4×4 route and enjoy the game viewing (you’ll definitely spot zebra, eland and bushbuck), while some excellent coastal and Renosterveld birding is also on the cards.The whale watching isn’t half bad either if you plan your visit between June and November.
BIRDING Grootvadersbosch is a premier birding location, with a good 170 species listed, including several pairs of resident Forest Buzzard, as well as a breeding pair of Crowned Eagles.
HIKE OR RUN The many reserve roads will get you well off the beaten track, mostly along sandy game trails and gravel roads. Good rock-hopping skills are required if you want to tramp the 5km coastal trail meandering through indigenous coastal brush.
STAY HERE
Gourikwa boasts a range of quaint self-catering cottages with individual charm and spectacular sea views. Six refurbished units with en-suite bathrooms, a mere 100m from the shore, are fully equipped and can sleep two to four people per cottage. Nine fisherman’s houses – slightly more rustic than the cottages – sleep four to six people each or style it in one of the Villa rooms with an en-suite bathroom. gourikwa.co.za
GETTING THERE
Turn off the N2 onto the R325 and travel 18.5km towards Gouritsmond before turning right towards Stilbaai. Drive for 7.5km and turn left, just before the tar ends, at the Gourikwa Reserve sign. Once at the gate, dial the number you received at reservation and after four rings the gate will open automatically. Drive through the gate and continue through the reserve for 3km until you reach the parking area at reception.
Access: Tarmac/gravel – okay for sedans
Cell reception: limited / no WiFi
GPS coordinates: S34°22’58.80”; E21°45’38.52”
gourikwa.co.za / +27 (0)87 702 9126
JAKKALSVLEI WINE ESTATE
Closest town: Hebertsdale (8km)
Feeling a bit lost? Well, let’s locate you to Albertinia on the N2: you can’t miss it, because there are loads of aloes and you may spot an incongruous elephant wandering upon the vast Hessequa plains. Outdoor nirvana awaits just off the highway, with the added bonus of an excellent wine farm to boot. Jakkalsvlei was the last thing you’d expect here amidst the Renosterveld ridges, and there’s more good news – the wines are outstanding.This family-owned wine farm – 8km from Herbertsdale on the R327 and 50km from Mossel Bay – surely rates as one of the Garden Route’s best-kept secrets. Herbertsdale is renowned for sunny weather and friendly folk, and there’s no better way to meet them than over a glass of excellent wine and some mouth-watering gourmet pizzas, right here on the lush lawns of Jakkalsvlei. visitmosselbay.com
WHAT TO DO
DRINK WINE The selection of superb vintages includes eight red, white, rosé and dessert wine varietals – including Muskadel and Hanepoot – to choose from. Tastings are offered in a premium restaurant with panoramic views over the mountains and vineyards, and with top-class food to boot. jakkalsvlei.co.za
BEACH Mossel Bay boats several superb beaches, including the Blue Flag Santos Beach, a wonderful place to relax with the whole family. Pinnacle Point’s beach is secluded and sheltered from the wind, perfect for a run or to explore the Pinnacle Point caves. The Point – especially Inner and Outer Pool – has a good surf break in off-shore conditions.
RIDE This is an absolute paradise for gravel bikers, with literally dozens of remote gravel roads crisscrossing the landscape inland from the N2.
OFF-ROAD Bonniedale Farm boasts an extended network of 4×4 routes and public gravel roads, with hundreds of kilometres to drive on and around the farm. More technical routes such as the old “Ossewa Pad” are reserved for expert off-road drivers. bonniedale.com
EXOTIC ANIMALS Wolwedans Game Farm boasts intensive game breeding focussing on specialised species like sable antelope, black impala and the sought-after nyala. See these unique animals in their natural habitat, or walk, run and ride amidst giraffe, zebra, gemsbuck, waterbuck and kudu. wolwedansgamefarm.co.za
STAY HERE
The ATKV Seefront Solders in Hartenbos is one of those places where you immediately feel at home. Everything goes here, from nouveau beach house luxury to down-to-earth camping. All units are fully equipped with cutlery, crockery, iron, braai grid and bedding – just bring a towel. atkvresorts.co.za
GETTING THERE
From Mossel Bay, follow the R327, then take the Albertinia turnoff; after 7km, Jakkalsvlei will be on your right.
Access: Tarmac/gravel – okay for sedans
Cell reception: Good / WiFi available
GPS coordinates: S – 33°59’15.31” / E – 21°43’09.33”
jakkalsvlei.co.za / +27 (0)44 333 0222
ROADSIDE STOPS
DELISH RESTAURANT Delish is a wonderful country restaurant just off the N2 near Heidelberg, brimming with homemade produce such as wood-fired artisanal bread, delectable pies, jams and sauces. delishn2.co.za
BLUE CRANE FARM SHOP The Blue Crane Farm Shop is located on the N2, exactly 3km west of Heidelberg. The menu includes tasty Banting meals, snacks and take-aways, plus it has a great kiddies’ play area and menu. bluecranefarmshop.co.za
PARADISE ORGANIC RESTAURANT The range is varied at this Suurbraak eatery, from the healthy, organic smoothies
to relaxed tapas-style lunches and laid-back breakfasts, presented in a tranquil garden. 083 454 2237
IKIGAI COFFEE BAR & DELI Situated in Riversdale, Ikigai specialises in top quality coffees from Origin Coffee Roasting, with freshly made gourmet sandwiches and a selection of sweet and savoury treats.
BALEIA WINES Just 1km north of Riversdale, the La Bella Restaurant, located next to the Baleia cellar offers fresh products daily as well as a range of delicious meals. baleiawines.com
INVERROCHE GIN DISTILLERY The pioneers of South African craft gin are situated in Stilbaai. In six years, the distillery has grown from a home industry to a flourishing and world-class distillery. Take a tour of the distillery or do a gin tasting. inverroche.com
ALBERTINIA HOTEL Established in 1900, this unique and charming country hotel has an outstanding reputation for country hospitality and is famed for its Sunday lunches. Pub lunches and a shady tea garden offer light meals. albertiniahotel.co.za
JACQUES MARAIS